Some impressions of our stay in Nakhchivan

We are two Swiss women, one who teaches German and the other Geography, who travelled along the Silk Road during our Easter holidays in April 2015. Our travels took us to Azerbaijan, a country nestled between East and West, shaped by past traditions, yet focused on the future. Since we love exploring places off the beaten track, we also decided after having spent a couple of days in Baku, to visit the Autonomous Republic of Nakhchivan, an exclave of Azerbaijan, which borders on Turkey, Armenia and Iran.

Our stay was memorable in all respects. During our arrival on the early morning plane, the spring sun bathed the beautiful Nakhchivan City in a warm glow. Our driver Niyazi, who was already waiting for us at the airport, met us with a hearty welcome. After a short stop at the Grand Hotel, he drove us to Ordubad through beautiful landscapes with flowering trees and fields of red poppies. In this small town near the Iranian border, people made us feel at ease straight away. We were invited for tea in the Central Square, and a journalist who was making a television report (a TV special to promote tourism in the Ordubad region) kindly put together a a list for us of the most important sites, places of interest and the museums of his region. On his advice, we decided to set off for the Alinja fortress.

It took us a bit of an effort to climb the endless stairs in the heat of the afternoon. Niyazi abandoned us half-way. Once we had arrrived at the top of the fortress, the view of the surrounding landscape was breathtaking, which more than compensated for all of our exhausting physical efforts.

We then continued on to the Cave of the Seven Sleepers, a place of pilgrimage hidden in the rocks. We were again offered a cup of tea on a shady terrace before going back to Nakhchivan City. In the evening, we strolled along the streets of the capital and savoured a tasty lentil soup in the restaurant on the top floor of the Tabriz Hotel with a dramatically beautiful view of the city and the mountains. The city seemed to be neatly arranged around the central square, modern and dynamic, yet restful. On our return to the Grand Hotel, we met Elcin Qurbanov who, fortunately for us, spoke English fluently and offered to guide us the following day.

After a good night's rest at our comfortable hotel, we were looking forward to discovering other parts of Nakhchivan, to learn more about its past, its traditions and its expectations for the future. Elcin and Niyazi picked us up and drove us in the direction of the Turkish border. We stopped at the village of Garabaglar and visited its complex, consisting of two minarets and a mausoleum, erected in honour of Gudi Khatun, the wife of the grandson of the emperor Genghis Khanand. They even let us climb up one of the towers, which offfered us a clear view of Mount Agri.

We next visited the Duzdag salt mines (Duz Dag = Salt Mountain), the oldest in the world, to which is attached a sanatorium for people suffering from respiratory problems. We were served a refreshing thyme tea in the tea shop at the entrance of the mine, then walked along a long corridor leading to bedrooms deep inside the mine. Breathing the salty air turned out to be quite refreshing.

Elcin then chose to lead us to Bicelak, a holiday resort high up in the mountains located a short distance from the border of Armenia where we enjoyed an impressive winter landscape. We reached a lake which was partly frozen; the surrounding countryside was still covered in snow. It was pure magic.

After this privileged moment, we returned to Nakhchivan City to visit its famous monuments. Thanks to Elcin, the mauoleums of Momine Khatun and Huseyn Javid, as well as the Khan Palace, soon held almost no more secrets for us. At the end of the day, Niyazi and Elcin invited us for dinner in a typical restaurant before we took the evening flight back to Baku. It was not without some regret that we left Nakhchivan, its dazzling beauty and its friendly, hospitable and generous people.

We would like to heartily thank all those who made our stay in Nakhchivan unforgettable, above all Niyazi and Elcin. We highly recommend this destination to our family, friends and colleagues, and to all people seeking authenticity, and hope that Nakhchivan will become a prime destination for foreign visitors.

visitors.

Diane Projer and Marina Morard

May trip with Nakhchivan/Azerbaijan

May trip with Nakhchivan

 Text & Photos © K. Gauger 

Again I did my every year's spring trip and it turned out to be one of the best ever! Manly because of my visit to Nakhchivan Autonomous Republic (NAR) with Mario Camici and others. But more of that later... Already the time in mainland Azerbaijan was great with 215 species in 11 days!

Just a few images here:

Fortunately Christian Gönner borrowed me his camera. Although it was not the newest one it was essential to have it for Nakhchivan.

It was my first visit to the exclave and it was even better than what I dreamed of for years!Here are some landscapes and the appendant birs.

Long-legged Buzzard

Batabat region. At above 2000 m asl the lakes hold breeding Redshanks, Common Sandpipers, Black-winged Stilts, Little Grebes, Sedge Warblers... We didn't see Raddes Accentor, which Pavel Simeonow had here two years ago but many other subalpine birds.

Ruddy Shelducks

On the way to Batabat at about 1500 m asl, the typical habitat of Irania which is very common here.

these Lesser Whitethroats occur in the mountains and look very much like althea

at several places we saw Upcher's Warbler

View from the Alindja castle mountain towards the lowland.

Grey-necked Bunting, common in the lower mountains

In cultivations in the lowland we found many Desert Finches, the first breeding records for Azerbaijan.

In the negram mountains, the lowest and driest part of Nakhchivan. Probably the best place to see Mongolian Finch.

Mongolian Finch, we saw several in Negram region.

Persian Wheatears are widespread in the lower mountains and the Negram.

flock of Black-bellied Sandgrouse, also seen or heard at several sites

 quite common as well, Eastern Rock Nuthatch

Trumpeter Finch, there were families at different places

 In the mountains of Ordubad region. Dry mountain slopes and lush vegetation in the valleys.

  Steppes around Ilandag. Rich  in flowers and only slightly grazed compared with the mainland.

See-see Partridge, widespread in the dry regions

 Bimaculated Larks are very common in the steppes

Pale Rock Sparrow, found at two places only but likely also widespread

Upcher's Warbler, typical for open habitats with small bushes

 The symbol of Nakhchivan, Mount İlandag.

female Wild Goat, there seem to be many of them and we also saw a Moufflon with offspring

The place where we wanted to see Caspian Snowcock. Although our local guide has see them here before, we could not find any. Anyway, there are several places where they should occur.

Nakhchivan is absolutely great, not only the species but also the landscape! I'm already looking forward to our next year's trip ;-)

Nakhchivan Autonomous Republic (Nature)

Nakhchivan Autonomous Republic is situated in the South-East of the Transcaucasus plateau. The average height above sea level is 1450 m. The most part of the territory of Nakhchivan Autonomous Republic is surrounded by the Zangazur and Daralayaz mountain chains of the Lesser Caucasus.

The highest top is the Gapichig mountain (3904 m). 1/3 of the territory constitutes the plain lands along the Araz river (Sadarak, Sharur, Boyukduz, Kangarli, Nakhchivan, Julfa, Ordubad). There are more than 200 mineral water springs (Daridagh, Badamli, Sirab, Vaykhir and others). The annual precipitation in the plain lands along the Araz river is 200-300 mm but in the high mountainous places is 500-800 mm.

There are 400 big and small rivers in Nakhchivan Autonomous Republic the length of which is 1,8 thousand km. The type of the climate in Nakhchivan Autonomous Republic is mainly dry and continental. The flora of it is very rich. There are 2782 kinds of higher plants and a rather rich animal world.

The Flora and Fauna                 

The rare fauna and flora of Azerbaijan are in Nakhchivan Autonomous Republic. Though the territory of Nakhchivan Autonomous Republic comprises 6,2% of the territory of the Azerbaijan Republic for its kind variety its flora comprises around 60% and fauna 56% of the country.

          7 climate zones out of 11 existing in the world are met in Nakhchivan Autonomous Republic. There are about 3000 plant species, 373 animal sorts, 226 bird kinds in Nakhchivan Autonomous Republic. Rare fauna and flora are protected in the Ordubad State Reservation, Ordubad National Park named after Hasan Aliyev, Shahbuz State Nature Reservation and along the Araz State Nature reservation.  

 The territory of Nakhchivan Autonomous Republic consists of rich flora and various plants. The flora of Nakhchivan Autonomous Republic is rich compared with other botanic-geographic regions of Azerbaijan. 2782 kinds of supreme plants are met in this region. They in their turns assembled in 773 species and 134 families. 68 of these kinds are cultivated. Wild plants possess 123 families and 697 species. 732 kinds flora are met in the lowlands along the Araz river, 1326 kinds in the middle mountainous and 640 kinds in the highest mountainous areas. The following plants and their types in Nakhchivan Autonomous Republic divide into –deserts and halfdeserts; friganoid and bozgir plants; high pasture, subalp and Alp meadows, Alp piles; woods, oasis, along river small woods; deposit and rock plants, water march plants.

The territory of autonomous republic is distinguished from the other regions of Azerbaijan according to its natural condition and richness of fauna. The kinds of animals and its number comprises 60-80% percent of the Azerbaijan fauna. The fauna of the autonomous republic has been investigated since the second half of the 19^th century. The scientists have defined 813 butterfly kinds, 134 kinds of sovca, 4 kinds of insects, 3 kinds of runaways, 4 kinds of praying mantis, 67 kinds of straight wings. 75 kinds of grasshoppers, 480 kinds of halfhardwings.

29 kinds of fishes belonging to the bony fish class were discovered in the rivers and lakes of the autonomous republic.

There are 6 kinds of amphibians and 19 kinds of reptiles in Nakhchivan Autonomous Republic. 

 218 knids of birds out of 366 registered in Azerbaijan live in the territory of the autonomous republic. 61 kinds of mammals are known in the area. 40 kinds of vertebral animals out of 350 kinds living in the autonomous republic were included to the “Red book”.

       

Geological structure and minerals- Nakhchivan Autonomous Republic drew the attention of geologists and travelers in the middle of the 18^th century. Discovering the caves, wells, primary labour tools in the fields of minerals (Duzdagh, Daridagh, Shakardara, Gomur, Guyulugagh, Gizilgaya and so on) once again shows that since ancient times salt, arsenic, copper, gold, sulphur etc. were excavated in the territory of Nakhchivan and also the scientific – descriptive tractats “Javahirnama” was created in the Middle Ages in Azerbaijan. The initial geological investigations and studying of mineral wealths in the region began in the 2^nd half of the 18^th century. The all-round and systematic investigations of the region began thereafter establishment of Nakhchivan Autonomous Republic.

The area of Nakhchivan Autonomous Republic is situated in the Nakhchivan tecthonic zone of the Lesser Caucasus from geological point of view. Its geological structure was comprised of the hollow par with 14 km of total thickness and with aboveground volcanic eruptions. Their aboveground appearance gives an opportunity to restore their 400 thousand years old geological data. The wide spread ware stones, construction stones and glassware in the hollow deposits play a great role in the local industry.

The mineral waters-60 % of the mineral waters reserve of Azerbaijan fall to the share of Nakhchivan Autonomous Republic. Over 250 mineral water sources were stated in 5,5 thousand km² area of Nakhchivan Autonomous Republic. The mineral waters “Badamli”, “Sirab”, “Vaykhir”, “Gulustan” and “Narzan” are popular in the world.

“Badamli” The source of this mineral water is situated in the wonderful valley covered with almond wood and vineyard, 1400 m above sea level, at 30 km distance of the city of Nakhchivan, around the village of the same name (Shahbuz region of Nakhchivan AR). The very place became popular for its carbonate water-narzan springs daily output of which is 2,5 mln liters. The water contains iodine, bromine, copper, borocic acid. One of the largest mineral water filling plants in the Caucasus operates here on the basis of the springs under use. “Badamli-5” is a wonderful beverage capable to raise appetite, to better digestive process, to stop thirsty. This water doesn’t have analogy in treating digestive diseases out of resort houses condition. “Sirab” “Sirab” is a “Borjomi” type popular healing-beverage water. This water is carbonated, hydrocarbonated-natrium-calcium with 2,0-2,7 g/l total mineral composition. Magnesium, bromine and calcium acids, titium, stonsium were discovered in “Sirab”. On the basis of the utilized sources “Sirab-12” of aromatic healing-beverage water filling plant operates. This water is used in gastroenteric, urine secretion canal diseases and also in metabolism disturbance. The water source is situated not far from the village of Sirab which is rather popular for the “Dashgala” architectural complex of the Bronze Age. “Vaykhir” Vaykhir is the richest deposit with Yesentuki type carbonated salt-alkaline waters and is situated at 17 km distance in the  North from the city of Nakhchivan 1400 m above sea level. Daily output of the drilled wells is more than 2 mln liters. This water is carbonated, chloride-hydrocarbonated-natrium with 6,5 g/l total mineral composition. The water is used in gastroenteric diseases, chronical gastritis, metabolism disturbance (sugar diabet, gastritis, diathesis, ocsalanturium) illness.     “Daridagh” Daridagh – is a rare source existing in nature which is included to the carbonated arsenic mineral waters. It is situated at 8 km distance in the North from the city of Julfa. The investigated reserves are 500 m3. it is of highly mineralized (temperature -52 0S) 21 g/l carbonated CO2 – 1,5 g/l chlorite – hydrocarbonated – natrium composition. In the same time it contains extremely more borium, iodine, bromine, stronsium and lithium. It is advisable to drink in gastroentric, joint diseases. It has an idespensable importance to take a bath in peripheral nerves diseases. “Nahajir” is a health resort place with treatment importance in the North-East of the city of Nakhchivan. It is situated in the slopes of the Nahajir mountain. The base of the health resort reserves comprises carbonated water sources (1,3 g/l free carbonate) magnesium-hydrocarbonated-natrium and water sources with 6 g/l mineralized degree. It gives good results in digestive organs diseases and anaemia illnesses.    “Batabat” Batabat is the climate health resort zone of healing importance situated in 1700 m above sea level, in the slopes of the Lesser Caucasus at 62 km distance in the North-East from the city of Nakhchivan. The climate is subtropical, snowy, mild winter, dry and not very hot summer. Togother with the climate condition (aeroheliotherapy) the main healing means are the carbonated, hydrocarbonated, calcium-natrium-magnezium waters with 0,5 g/l mineralized degree. The right water is drunk in treating gastroentric diseases. The lake with sweet water, mnild climate, good scope view and very rich flora belonging to alp meadows impress on human very highly. “Gomur” Gomur is a high above mountain climate station. It is situated at 75 km distance of the city of Nakhchivan, 1700 m above sea  level. Very rich mineral water deposits with carbonated salt-alkali composition were discovered here. The climate of this place is mild-cold, but winter is mild and summer is cool. The Gomur health resort zone is of special importance in treating the nerve systems functional diseases, tiredness, gastroentirc and respiratory diseases. “Sharur” The Sharur springs are situated near the macadam road, in the South-West of Sirab village. The power of springs (daily output over 1 mln liters) gives an opportunity to bild a healing complex thanks to the waters with carbonated hydrocarbonate-chloride-natrium and with rare microcarbonated complex composition. The rich mneral waters of Nakhchivan have opportunities to gain advantages in the world market.

       

Climate – The climate of Nakhchivan is sharp continental. A dry subtropic climate type is met in the territory of Ordubad. The absolute minimum temperature is 31 ⁰C (Darvishlar), the absolute maximum temperature is 44 ⁰C (Julfa).